my tools
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Nikon D300 12 megapixel dslr
The D300 has taken the place of my old D200 as the finest SLR I've ever used. It's very much like the D200 in nearly every way -- size, shape, weight, buttons -- but with a choice set of features bumped up to the next level. (One big benefit is that, unlike moving from the D70 to the D200, there's almost no learning curve.)
Is it worth the upgrade price? For me, yes, for several reasons.
The images coming out of D300 seem to my eye to have better white balance, more natural contrast, and improved noise at higher ISOs, about a one-stop improvement. I'm also pleased with the new Active D-Lighting, which keeps the highlights from blowing out. And by some weird miracle, the D300 eliminates chromatic aberration from my lenses (the kind of flaw that drives me nuts in big prints); that's actually a huge benefit that's getting little or no press.
But probably the most important change for my purposes is the camera's improved auto-focus. The D300 rarely struggles to lock focus, even in dim settings with less-than-ideal subjects, a big improvement over the D200, which was frustrating at times. Don't get me wrong -- the D200 was good, and the D300 still occasionally struggles. But for the most part I can take it for granted that the D300 is going to lock onto whatever I'm shooting.
[Aside: I may have discovered a cure for my Nikon dSLRs' difficulty focusing my super-fast lenses. Both my D200 and D300 have been hit and miss correctly finding focus with both of my f/1.4 lenses (the 50mm and the 28mm), but that's been at my former default settings of Single Point AF and Single Server AF. For other reasons, I've started to use the D300's Dynamic Area Autofocus and Continuous Server AF as my walk-around default. An unexpected benefit is that the camera now does an excellent job locking onto focus with these two fast lenses.]
There are smaller refinements I appreciate, too. The little screw-on caps are now replaced by plugs that stay attached. I really love the snappy 6 frames per second -- just a tad snappier than the D200, and much snappier than my D80. The 3" LCD on the rear has very high pixel density; it's beautiful, but I took it for granted almost immediately. I do like the info screen that can be popped up on the rear LCD, especially since the top LCD is impossible to see on a high tripod. Fifty-one focus points? I'm all over that -- using a tripod, I can set the focus on a portrait subject's face even way out of the center of the frame. Better battery life? Yes, much better.
Less interesting to me is the new Live View mode, which lets you see the scene through the lens on the rear LCD. I can't imagine finding it useful. I've also had little problem with dust on the sensor (a blower bulb fixes all my dust), so the sensor shake doesn't impress me. And I'm not expecting any major wow factor now that I'm shooting 12 megapixels rather than 10. While that sounds like a 20% jump, we're really talking about printing 1.3 inches wider at 300 dpi. (Of course I often print at 180 dpi, so right out of the camera I've got an image almost 18 x 24 inches with no resampling.)
Disappointments? Nothing serious. I use the settings banks, but I still wish I could lock them, I wish there was a single settings bank rather than two, and I wish there was a button to switch banks rather than a series of menu choices. I check highlights on most of my shots, but I can no longer flip back and forth between an unobstructed image and a highlights display (update: this turns out to be a nonissue since I discovered I can display flashing highlights on the histogram screen, just a button press away). I also love those function buttons (three now, including the AE-L / AF-L button), but unfortunately, Nikon doesn't let me assign some of my favorite functions, including D-Lighting and settings banks.
And the lack of 100 ISO is a little disconcerting. The D300 can be set to some sort of artificial 100 ISO, called L 1.0, but Nikon says little about it. Thom Hogan believes that I'll see more highlights blowing out at ISOs below 200, and indeed, side by side, the L 1.0 image looks a little more contrasty. But meanwhile, in my first quick tests, I can clearly see reduced luminance noise in the shadows compared with ISO 200, so I'm not going to hesitate to use it in low-contrast situations.
The move from the D70 to the D200 was a huge leap, from the D100 to the D200 was a huge leap, but from the D200 to the D300? It's basically an upgrade. A worthwhile upgrade for my needs, but an upgrade nonetheless.
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Nikon D80 10 megapixel dslr
As of the beginning of August 2006, I've been testing and using the Nikon D80 (thanks to some work I did for a certain camera manufacturer), and even though I prefer the D200, I'm finding that the D80 will make a perfect second camera: most of the time, it'll be available for the rest of my family when we go out shooting together, but it'll also make a good second body when I need to shoot with two lenses and I don't have time to swap (think Mermaid Parade). Finally, it's reassuring to have a second Nikon dSLR on hand if I ever need to ship the D200 in for tuneup or repair (though that alone is, of course, a poor reason to spend $1000).

I just dropped a lot of money on the D200, and I'm finding the D80 alarmingly similar in many respects: same 10.2 megapixel sensor, same 11 autofocus points, both take ISO down to 100, both include a function button that can be configured by the user. In fact, the D80 has some features I wouldn't expect in anything but a fairly high-end camera, such as mirror-up shooting mode (what Nikon calls "Exposure Delay Mode"), for absolutely rock-solid shooting on a tripod. In fact, the D80 has two nice advantages: it's much smaller and lighter (20 ounces vs. 29 for the D200), and I like the tiny, wireless ml-l3 remote shutter release (about $20) as opposed to the D200's wired remote.
But for my use, the D200 has important advantages: the D200 is weather sealed; it shoots at 5 frames per second and -- more important -- its buffer will take 22 RAW shots before slowing down vs. the D80's 6; the D200 will auto-bracket as many as 9 exposures vs. the D80's 3; the D200 allows multiple saved banks of settings; plus lots of minor advantages that I appreciate (one example: I can set the center-press of the rocker switch to set the focus point to the center). In general, the D200 is much more configurable in small but handy ways.
Coming from the other direction, the D80 -- like the D200 -- solves many of the frustrations I felt with the D70. I like the additional auto-focus points; I really like larger 2.5" LCD screen and the ability to zoom in really tight to check focus; I like the higher magnification of the viewfinder; I like having 10 megapixels rather than 6, mainly because I can crop more freely. One frustration picked up from the D70 -- the way I carry a camera, I accidentally bump the exposure-settings dial and find myself in Manual or a scene mode. Luckily, there's no such dial on the D200.
One of the big changes in the D80 is the addition of a whole set of in-camera editing options: you can shoot black and white (while keeping a color version of the image), there's red-eye correction and in-camera cropping, and lots more, as well as a built-in slideshow with smooth fade out and fade in if you want to connect your D80 to a TV. But honestly, I have no use for those features (nor do I need any of the Scene Modes, which pre-set the camera for various shooting conditions).
Update: My D200 and D80 sit side by side in my equipment closet. When I head out the door, I grab a camera. I love the D200 and, for critical work, that's the one that goes with me, for all the reasons I stated above. But when I'm just headed out to a dentist appointment or to pick up the kids at school, which one do I grab? The one that's about 1/3 lighter.
Images from the D80's kit lens, the Nikon 18mm - 135mm f/3.5-5.6G ED-IF AF-S DX (no VR), look very sharp to my eye at most focal lengths, but there is considerable barrel distortion at the wide 18mm end, and noticeable pincushioning at the telephoto end. I'm also seeing considerable chromatic aberration in high-contrast situations. [The manual focus ring loses one of the nice features of the better Nikon lenses. -- Never mind -- my mistake.] The lens keeps the handy ability to manually focus even while in autofocus mode. 18-135mm is a handy range, and lens will eventually retail alone for a reasonable $400, but I recommend saving your pennies for the well-regarded 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6 DX VR, a bargain at less than $800. Though it's not as fast as my beloved 70-200mm f/2.8 VR, and not quite as sharp, it's a terrific lens.
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speedlight sb-600
flash for the D70, D200, D2H, D2X etc.
this lightweight flash was designed specifically for the d70 and takes advantage of all kinds of advanced TTL features of nikon digital cameras. it does a great job -- though it's only rated at gn 98, it did an awesome job bouncing off a black ceiling and walls at my
son's last gig. roughly $250, it's still hard to find in the u.s.
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Nikkor 12-24mm f/4G DX
Ultra wide lenses are rarer and more expensive for digital SLRs -- because the field of view is reduced by a factor of about 1.6 on the D-70, for example, a 20mm lens catches the same field of view as a 30mm lens on a 35mm camera. The Nikkor 12-24mm, designed specifically for the Nikon digital SLRs, gives an equivalent of an 18-36mm zoom, a fantastic wide angle range down at the 12mm end, and a good medium-wide at the 24. Though the 12mm end has quite a bit of barrel distortion, the 24 is relatively flat, even decent for portraits, if you subject isn't freaked out by having the lens shoved right up in her face. Because the 24 end is so flat, and overall very sharp, the 12-24 has become my favorite walking around lens, really wonderful for street photography. It's expensive -- just shy of $1000 most places -- but the quality is superb. Because it's a DX-series lens, it'll only work on a 35mm body only out at the medium to long end of the range. I do see quite a bit of chromatic aberration at the 12mm end, and a bit of vignetting, but nothing I can't handle in Photoshop.
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17-55mm
I've got a new favorite walk-around lens.
17-55mm isn't an amazingly wide range -- I like ultrawide (like my 12-24mm better) and 55mm is barely telephoto on my D200. But f/2.8 is just fast enough to make a big difference, especially since I often want the shallowest depth of field possible. And that 17-55mm range does give me a decent wide angle at one end, and good portrait focal length at the other.
And it's very sharp -- in fact, in my tests, it was the sharpest of my zoom lenses, even wide open at f/2.8 (beating out my 12-24 and, not surprisingly, my 18-200mm).
Drawbacks? Three. First, it's expensive at about $1200 (I bought mine used). Second, it's heavy, very heavy at 1 pound, 14 oz (making my D80 + 17-55mm combination a hefty 3 and a half pounds).
Finally, it's got more distortion than I like, especially at this price and limited focal length range. It's got some barreling at the wide end and pincushion at the long end. The good news is the distortion is not a complicated "mustache" type that's hard to correct. I can fix it quickly in Photoshop.
One of the really annoying aspects of Nikon's very popular 18-200mm VR lens (reviewed below) is that the end of the lens projects way out of the lens body when it's at the 200mm end, shooting the lens and the attached hood way out there -- it goes from about 4" to about 6 1/2". This 17-55 also extends, but only about an inch, and the hood is attached to the main body of the lens, so if you leave the hood on, you can't even see the extension.
So I deal with the slight distortion and the weight, and in return I get very sharp, very fast focusing, and fast f/2.8 throughout its range.
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Sigma 30mm f/1.4 EX DC
I just love shallow depth of field, and I've long been attracted to superfast lenses. The trouble is, Nikon hasn't updated its f/1.4 lenses in quite a while (as of May 2007). Neither the 50mm nor the 85mm are built with the quick and quiet AF-S autofocus. In addition, on today's digital Nikon SLR's, they're equivalent to focal lengths of roughly 75mm and 130mm, and I've always been a wide-angle guy.
Which is why I've been eager to pick up the Sigma 30mm f/1.4 (roughly equivalent to a 45mm "normal" lens on a film SLR). The Sigma has been hard to find for months, but I found one used on the Nikonians.org classifieds, and I'm very happy with it.
First things first -- all the way open at f/1.4 the Sigma is a bit soft. This is a lens I won't pull out for critical applications like the extreme detail in my Workspace series (which I print at 20" x 30"). But this lens is perfect for more forgiving subjects like portraits, when I'm after extremely shallow depth of field. Or for very low light/low noise situations.
I tested the Sigma against my best lens, the Nikkor 17-55mm f/2.8, shooting fine detail from a tripod, and I was surprised to discover that, at their best aperture of f/8, the two lenses are equally sharp at the center of the image. It's the corners that separate the good from the great, and the corners are definitely soft in the Sigma, with more chromatic aberration as well.
Open the Sigma all the way to f/1.4 and even the center is slightly soft, and the corners are worse. But the beauty of extremely shallow depth of field more than makes up for any softness, and I've taken to occasionally using it as my basic walk-around lens. (It's perfect for the subway with its dim lighting and constant motion. I can shoot at 1/60 sec at ISO 200.)
It's also a great street lens because I can open it up in aperture priority mode and let the shutter speed bump way up to freeze action. On a cloudy day I find that ISO 100, f/1.4 can give me 1/500 sec. on the open sidewalk. The downside, of course, is that wide open for shallow depth of field, it's easy to exceed the fastest shutter speed. I just picked up a filter step-up ring for my neutral density filter that should help matters.
Now I'm no prime-lens fanatic. I love my zooms -- the best of them are sharp and pretty fast. But the only way I'm gonna get that intensely shallow depth of field is at f/1.4, and the Sigma 30mm suits me just fine.
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Nikkor 20mm f/2.8 AF-D
When I spent a week in Mexico last Spring, I took my my D200 and only the Sigma 30mm f/1.4 lens, because my favorite walkaround lens, the 17-55mm f/2.8 was simply too heavy and unwieldy to haul all day long through restaurants, boats, and streets. But the vacation proved to me that the 30mm's field of view was simply too restricting for the way I shoot. On the DX-sensor D200, it had the field of view of roughly a 45mm lens, and I'm more of a wide-angle kinda guy.
So I recently picked up a used Nikkor 20mm f/2.8 AF-D, and I think this is the lens I should have taken to Mexico. Even on the DX-sensor D300, it's a nice wide 30mm equivalent and much more suited to what I like to shoot. And at f/2.8, it's fast enough for most low-light situations (and don't forget, this D300 gives me about an additional stop in faster ISO over the D200) and offers a nice shallow depth of field, too.
In my quasi-scientific tests, this thing is sharp. Tested against my favorite and sharpest lens, the Nikon 17-55mm DX f/2.8, the zoom actually has a very slight edge in center sharpness when they're both wide open. But in the corners the 20mm is way ahead, both sharper and with much less chromatic aberration.
At most other apertures, the 20mm beat the 17-55mm by a small margin, nothing that would be visible in normal prints, but sharper all the same. The 20mm also beat the 17-55mm in contrast, though only barely.
But really, I didn't buy the 20mm for its slight edge in sharpness or contrast. When weight and size are not a consideration, or when I really need the versatility of a zoom, I'll carry the 17-55mm. But unfortunately, weight sometimes is a factor. In addition, the 17-55mm often feels like it's swinging way out there in traffic, especially with that enormous hood. The 20mm weighs less than 10 ounces, compared to the 17-55mm's one pound, eleven ounces, and it only projects about 2 inches from the camera, compared to the 17-55's 5 inches (without hoods).
So I know I'll be popping on this little 20mm for more than vacations -- I think it'll be the lens to grab when I'm just headed out to a restaurant or going on a local errand. Fast, light, and wide.
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Nikon 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6 G DX VR
Nikon's 18-200mm DX VR lens has been extremely popular ever since it was first announced in November 2005, and for good reason: as a "superzoom" it covers wide range of focal lengths, it's light at 20 ounces and not too expensive at about $750, and it's got Vibration Reduction to partly overcome the slow f/3.5 to 5.6 aperture range. The lens has been hard to find for most of its life, and I bought mine used, online.
But several factors make me leave this lens home more often than not. First, it suffers from zoom creep -- that is, when my camera is hanging at my side, gravity draws out the lens a full 2 1/2 inches, from the 18mm end to fully zoomed. Extended, the lens is almost 6 1/2 long, and really swings around. (See Ken Rockwell's review for a discussion and image of this.)
And that brings up my second complaint -- this lens sticks way way out when you zoom it toward its telephoto end. To me, that shouts Cheap Lens.
And third, it's nice to have VR, but that doesn't help me achieve the nice, shallow depth of field that I love and can get with an f/2.8 or faster lens.
Other annoyances: it adds a little too much distortion on either side of 20 to 24mm, a bit of wave distortion at the wide end that isn't simple to correct in photoshop, and some pincushioning at the tele end. Also, though this lens is acceptably sharp, for really critical work, it doesn't compare to my 17-55mm f/2.8.
So though this sounds like an ideal all-in-one lens for travel and day trips, most of the time I end up sacrificing weight and zoom and take my 17-55mm f/2.8 DX instead, reviewed above.
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Nikon 10.5mm f/2.8G DX Fisheye
A fisheye lens is obviously not for everyone, but after finding that I was always borrowing Keith's, I finally broke down and bought my own. The lens creates wildly distorted views that cover 180 degrees of view (!), so wide that you have to watch out or you'll get your feet in some shots. But Nikon's Capture NX software (about $130) includes a one-click tool that flattens out the image and straightens all those lines (at the expense of cropping wide swaths of the edges and stretching anything near the edges). The lens is plenty sharp, fast at f/2.8, and light at only 11 oz. Its only drawback is that it gets a fair amount of chromatic aberration, and, as a DX-series lens, it's not for 35mm bodies. It's reasonably priced at around $600. Now that I've got my own, I find I carry with me a lot. I don't need it often, but every now and then, it's exactly what I need.
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Nikon AF-S VR Zoom-Nikkor ED 70-200mm f/2.8G IF
Set aside for a moment the question of the Vibration Reduction feature of the Nikkor 70-200 VR. Even with the VR turned off, this is, by far, the sharpest, clearest lens I've ever used, bar none. You want proof? Here's an uncropped image I took down in Dumbo one afternoon, shot at the wider end of the zoom's range, 95mm, at f/11 and 1/125 sec, ISO 200 on my D70. Now look way down at the bottom of the image, where you can see a cyclist loading a bike into the back seat of a car. Now consider this: in the original image, blown up on my monitor, I can count the spokes on the back wheel of that bike. And that was with VR turned off.
VR has its detractors, but I'm very happy with the feature -- I could never have shot my "amnh" series without it. For that project, I was mostly shooting at the 70 to 110mm end at ISO 200 on the D70 in that dark museum. This image for example, was taken at 1/20 sec with the lens at 110mm. That's more than two stops slower than you'd normally want to shoot at that focal length. But it's sharp as a tack. Blown up to 13 x 19", you can see every hair on that man's arms.
More: The "bokeh," the look of the out-of-focus rendering, is beautiful. The autofocus is fast, accurate and silent (though the VR makes a quiet clicking sound).
Drawbacks: expensive at about $1700, the lens is heavy at 3 lbs and it can't focus closer than about five feet. (See also Thom Hogan's review.)
Buy it here.
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macintosh
desktop and laptop
For a couple years now, I've run a PowerMac G5 paired with the
Dell Ultrasharp 20" LCD display (an incredible bargain since it uses the same screen Apple uses in its 20" Cinema Display).
movabletype blogging software
I moved up to movable type from blogger.com because I needed individual archives, then impossible with blogger.com. I found movable type tricky to set up (mt tags are case sensitive!), but it's easy to use once it's up and running, and the user support forums are a terrific resource. (by the way, the move up to version 3.1 was simple and successful, though I'm still trying to figure out why future posting is so tricky)
blogger.com
blogging software
since I left for movable type, blogger.com has become way more powerful, adding conditional tags, built-in comments, individual archives (called "post pages") and lots more. if they'd had all that when I was using the software, I might never have switched
powweb domain host and web server
I compared a huge number of budget-priced web hosts and picked powweb because they're set up to host movabletype pages, they offer a hundreds gigs of storage and thousands of gigs of transfer per month (!), their servers seem to be very fast, and their one-year subscription costs me only $7.25 a month including registering and hosting my domain. there are other popular choices, but I like the combination of features at powweb
service:
Photo-Tech is one of the few authorized Nikon repair centers in NYC, and the folks there are friendly, smart, and fast. They've handled almost all of my Nikon repairs (all but the few that have to go off to the Nikon Factory) and I trust their advice and their skill.
110 East 13th Street between 3rd and 4th Ave (not far from Union Square)
212.673.8400
service@phototech.com
Tekserve Mac sales and service hardly needs my endorsement -- the shop has long been recognized as the finest Mac and iPod repair shop around (they do NOT repair PCs). It's also the first name you should think of when you want to buy a Mac (they've already got the LED MacBook Pros on display). But until you've visited, you may not realize what a wonderland of technology the place is -- the wall of antique radios alone is worth a visit.
119 W. 23rd St. between 6th and 7th Ave
212.929.3645
help@tekserve.com
printing:
Epson Stylus Pro 3800
Here are some of the reasons I like my Epson 3800 so much more than my old Epson 2200:
- Bigger prints. Everybody prints at 13 x 19 these days, and it no longer looks very big, especially on a gallery wall. 17 x 25 looks big, and it doesn't scream "printed at home."
- Better color, right out of the box, and way better black and white prints. With Black, Light Black, and Light Light Black ink cartridges, and a special B&W driver, b&w prints come out much smoother and much more neutral than on my 2200.
- Better ink. Bronzing and metamerism are almost completely a nonissue with this printer, so now I can print on glossy, semi-gloss, luster without worry.
- Cheaper ink. Though the 3800 cartridges cost about five times more than the 2200's, they hold probably ten times more ink.
- No more cartridge swapping. The 3800 holds both the matte and photo black inks, so swapping between them is way easier. (Some ink is wasted every time you switch, but my calculations suggest it costs two to five dollars to switch, way cheaper than some of the other Epson Pro printers that flush the entire system.)
- More data. Ink levels are displayed right on the printer's LCD, and you get early warnings about low ink. The printer will also print out a data sheet showing me every detail about the last nine prints I made, including the precise amount of ink used and exactly how long each one took. And the printer's LCD also lets me handle things like print head alignment without touching my computer.
- Fewer ink clogs. In fact, so far, after a couple hundred prints, I haven't had a single issue with the print heads, unlike my 2200 which needed a cleaning cycle every now and then.
- Less ink waste. If you run out of ink in the middle of a print, the printer pauses, lets you swap in a new cartridge, and then continues printing without missing a beat. And the print comes out perfect.
- Eric Chan's 3800 FAQ. Wow, every single issue and question I had about my new printer was covered by Eric's FAQ -- plus I've used his custom color profiling service to get better prints from non-Epson brand paper, and the profiles work like a charm.
books and software:
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adobe photoshop cs2 for photographers by martin evening
this is the smartest photoshop book I've read -- thorough, well written, and filled with detailed ideas on working with both digital and scanned photos. if you're only going to own one photoshop book, this would be it
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the photoshop cs2 book for digital photographers
by scott kelby
step-by-step instructions for performing dozens of digital photography processes. this book left me with fast methods for processing photos that I use every day
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photoshop cs3
as expensive as it remains, photoshop is absolutely indispensable. the latest version adds a much more usable image browser, a much improved raw file tool, and many other improvements.
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DxO optics pro.
The DxO tools are specifically crafted to match individual lenses and cameras, and correct four problems with images: distortion, vignetting, lens blur, and chromatic aberration. while Photoshop can handle most of those, DxO performs all those corrections unattended, in one fell swoop. I run it on a batch of raw image files, and DxO saves the files in adobe's dng format, which I can then import into photoshop for additional tweaking as raw files. sweet.
update: as time goes on, I find I use the software exclusively to correct distortion, vignetting, and chromatic aberration. I can do a better job fixing light, sharpness, noise, etc., in photoshop...
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other recommended software for working with raw-format images: many people swear by
nikon capture 4, but I find the interface unpleasant and it seems much more sluggish than the photoshop raw plug-in. finally,
phase one c1
has been very highly recommended to me by professionals, but I haven't yet tried it
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Plug-ins? I only use a few:
- My main set is from Fred Miranda, who makes the best sharpening tool I've found, and I've compared it to all the more famous (and more expensive) plug-ins. It's called "Nikon D70 CS Pro" (CS = Custom Sharpening) but he makes basically the same tool for a variety of cameras (and for both Mac and PC) and the D70 one works great with my D200.
- I also use his Resize Pro plug-in to shrink my images for the Web, though he hasn't released one for the D200 and my old one for the D70 refuses to work with most of my D200 images. Finally, when you see my black-and-white images, they've been converted with Fred's BW Workflow Pro, which has so many variables and dials and switches that it took me some time to master.
- I try to avoid high-ISO images, but when I come across noise, I use the Noise Ninja plug-in to handle it. Works like a charm, but please study up a bit on digital noise in order to make the best use of any noise tool. (Short lesson: learn about the difference between chroma noise and luminance noise.)
- Finally, as a rule I never, ever resample an image to make a larger print. I'd rather take the image down to 180 or even 150 dpi for a large print than resample. But in that rare case when I've needed to blow up something REALLY big (like a recent 4-foot wide print I sold), I've used onOne Software's Genuine Fractals plug-in.
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iview media pro
media cataloging software
I tested quite a few image cataloguing apps for the Mac, but settled on
iView Media Pro
because it offers so many features -- I use it to catalog, to locate files on my hard drive, for batch renaming, for creating web pages.
Archived reviews:
Epson Stylus Photo 2200 inkjet printer
massive resolution at print sizes up to 13" x 44", seven ink cartridges (including "light black' for amazing grayscale), firewire (and USB) connection, and a variety of glossy, semigloss, luster, and matte papers that won't fade for 75 years. what's not to like? okay it's pricey, but the output is worth every penny.
Nikon D200 10 megapixel dslr
I used the 6 megapixel Nikon D70 hard and well for almost exactly two years, and I was always very pleased with the images I've gotten. (In fact, 6 megapixels was plenty of resolution even for the 13" x 19" prints I sell.) But I gradually became more and more frustrated with the limitations of the camera's features, even starting to envy my friends' D2-series Nikons. But there was no way I could afford those high-end dSLRs, nor did I want to carry around a camera that heavy.

Then came the 10.2 megapixel D200, a camera that reviewers agree combines the best features of the lower-end D70 and the top-of-the-line D2-series: from the D70, the camera inherits a small, light body just about 30% heavier then the d70 (though tougher and more weather-proof), the built-in flash (which can remotely control a sb-600 or sb-800, external flash through "commander" mode), and the high-capacity en-el3-type battery design (though the D200 eats up much more power than the D70).
From the D2-series Nikons, the D200 picks up many pro-level features I've been craving (better 11-sensor auto-focus system, much bigger and brighter LCD, 5 frames per second shooting speed, ISO 100, and lots more). Among my favorite new features are the mirror prerelease (great for tripod shooting) and the user-assignable FUNC button (I set it to switch into spot metering). It's wonderful to have immediate, button access to ISO, exposure modes, and continuous shooting speed. No more digging through menus.
The D200 includes 2 banks of 4 user-customizable settings, but I find the implementation to be flawed. I've set up a bank, for example, that I've named "Tripod;" with a quick couple menu selections I've got my preferred settings for auto-focus, ISO, mirror prerelease, etc. But the D200 doesn't let me lock that bank. As a result, if I'm shooting in my "Tripod" bank and I alter any of those settings -- say I bump the ISO up to 200 -- the setting is altered in the bank. Next time I go out shooting and select "Tripod," I'll find the ISO at 200, not my preferred 100. The practical result is that I feel much more reluctant to touch any setting when I'm using one of the banks. Update: a couple months later and I've decided I was a bit too harsh on the settings banks. I don't alter them as much as I thought I would, so they're actually quite handy as designed -- though I'd still prefer a way to lock them.
Other drawbacks: it's a shame the D200 did away with the tiny, wireless, $20 ml-l3 remote shutter release. Instead I've had to buy one of the corded, ten-pin models; it's bulkier to carry and takes more fiddling to plug in -- and I'm limited by the length of the cord (though the wireless model only worked from a line-of-sight area in front of the camera). Also, while the d200 offers a more detailed and accurate estimate of remaining lief in the new en-el3e battery, the D200 sucks up power at about twice the rate of the older camera.
And some aspects of the new camera took getting used to after two years with my d70: the shutter release has less of a distinct pop when it's halfway down (for prefocusing, for example). It can be tricky to press the center button on the directional pad -- I tend to accidentally hit one direction instead. (I've finally learned to spread the pad of my thumb across the whole button for that press.) And all these new settings, especially all the various focus modes, is a much bigger learning curve. I find I spend a little more time checking all the settings before I go out shooting.
That said, I find that every annoying feature of the D70 has been addressed in the D200. I no longer accidentally change the exposure mode by bumping the D70's dial; I can center the focus point with a single click; I'm using ISO 100 and seeing zero luminance noise in the shadows; I can change the direction of the exposure compensation dial; I can shoot up to nine automatically bracketed shots in a row; the LCD is not only larger, but I can now zoom in extremely tight on an image to check focus; etc. etc.
As I write this in July 2006, the D200 remains scarce (same with the en-el3e batteries). You can try here. (I get a kickback from every sale). Or just keep hounding the usual outlets: B&H, Adorama, etc. Since it costs the same everywhere ($1700, at least as of July 2006), buy it as soon as you find it in stock. (Update: Supply of both camera and battery seem to be much improved.
Not only does Thom Hogan give a very complete review of the D200, but his 700-page Complete Guide to the D200 is absolutely essential. It's head and shoulders above any other material I've seen on any camera. If you spend $1700 on a D200, another $30 for Thom's guide is a no-brainer (and I don't get a penny for that endorsement).
D70 6-megapixel digital SLR
as I've been telling my friends, it's like coming home again. this is a real SLR, just like the ones I grew up with.
unlike other non-SLR digital cameras, the d70 responds to everything in an instant. it turns on immediately (though I leave it on all day since it barely eats up battery power), it focuses fast, it zooms like every SLR with a quick twist of the zoom ring on the lens, and the shutter responds with a barely perceptible delay.
finally I can spot a shot I want, whip the camera to my eye, zoom and frame, and snap off a picture -- all in a fraction of the time it took with my coolpix 4500. in the first week of use, this camera caught dozens of shots I would have missed with the 4500. and the six megapixel "raw" format photos are simply awesome, completely blowing the coolpix out of the water. I thought I'd miss framing with the lcd screen -- as with all SLR's, the d70's is only for reviewing shots and viewing the menus, but I don't miss it one bit.
the bundled 18 to 70mm lens (f3.5-4.5) adds $300 to the camera's price, and it's a bargain. the lens is sharp and smooth, and it focuses quickly and quietly.
the d70 kit -- the body bundled with the zoom lens -- has gotten much cheaper over time, and you'll probably end up finding the d70s, a slightly upgraded d70 that only adds minor improvements.
other details: the en-el3 battery lasts and lasts -- I've heard it's good for a thousand shots. my coolpix lcd screen was scratched within a week, but the d70 comes with a clear cover (nikon part bm-4). the bundled 18-70mm lens comes with a hood that will both reduce lens flare and protect the lens -- use it. also, there seem to be a free 4-year extended warranty for the lens -- don't neglect to open the little envelope or you'll miss the ten-day deadline
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you'll eventually want the ml-l3 remote shutter release (about $20), and a spare lcd cover bm-4 (about $10). they remain hard to find in stock.
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update history
may 25, 2005 - added sections on the 12-24mm lens, powermac G5 and dell 20" monitor, DxO optics pro, and cheap frames. also updated details for the d70s
july 8, 2006 - added section on the 70-200mm lens
july 10, 2006 - added section on the nikon d200 dslr and updated dxo section
july 12, 2006 - added section on photoshop plug-ins
september 4, 2006 - added section on the nikon d80 and kit lens
september 29, 2006 - added "Update: D200 and D80 side by side," fisheye lens review
june 9, 2007 - added two service endorsements
october 14, 2007 - added section on the Nikon 18-200mm lens
december 30, 2007 - added D300 review, archived D200 review
april 21, 2008 - added Nikon 20mm f/2.8 review
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